Nanga Parbat Expedition
Elevation (Nanga Parbat Expedition): 8126 Mt
Mountain Range: Himalaya
First Ascent: July 3, 1953 by Hermann Buhl
Duration: 50 Days
Best Time: Mid May – End August
About Nanga Parbat Expedition:
Nanga Parbat forms the western anchor of the Himalayan Range and is the westernmost eight-thousand. It lies just south of the Indus River in the Astor District of Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan administered Kashmir. Not far to the north is the western end of the range of Karakoram. Nanga Parbat has tremendous vertical relief over local terrain in all directions. To the south, Nanga Parbat boasts what is often referred to as the highest mountain face in the world: the Rupal Face rises 4,600 m (15,000 feet) above its base. To the north, the complex, somewhat more gently sloped Raikot Flank rises 7,000 m (22,966 feet) from the Indus River valley to the summit in just 27 km, one of the 10 greatest elevation gains in so short a distance on Earth.
Nanga Parbat Expedition is one of the most difficult expeditions. Nanga Parbat means “Naked Mountain” is so named because some of its slopes are so steep that they are bereft of vegetation and snow. The core of Nanga Parbat is a long ridge trending southwest-northeast. The ridge is an enormous bulk of ice and rock. It has three faces, Diamir face, Raikot and Rupal. The south western portion of this main ridge is known as the Mazeno Wall, and has a number of subsidiary peaks on it. In the other direction, the main ridge makes arcs northeast at Raikot Peak (7,070 meters). The south/southeast side of the mountain is dominated by the massive Rupal Face, noted above. The north/northwest side of the mountain, leading to the Indus, is more complex. It is split into the Diamir (west) face and the Raikot (north) face by a long ridge. There are a number of subsidiary summits, including North Peak (7,816 m) some 3 km north of the main summit. Near the base of the Rupal Face is a beautiful glacial lake called Latbo, above a seasonal shepherds’ village of the same name.
50 Days Nanga Parbat Expedition Itinerary:
Day 01: Islamabad
Meet and assist at airport by a local tour manager. Alpine Club of Pakistan will host a welcome reception at Alpine Club. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day 02: Islamabad
We will go to the ministry of tourism where the tourism officials will brief the team. If the time allow we may go for sightseeing tour of Islamabad. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day 03: Islamabad – Chilas (472 km)
Early morning drive for Chilas. Overnight stay in hotel at Chilas.
Day 04-05: Chilas – Halale – Diamir BC
We will embark on Jeeps for Halale and then onward trekking to Diamer B.C. (Tent)
Day 06-45: Scaling the Summit
We have 4O days for acclimatization and for scaling the summit. (Tent)
Day 46-47: Halale – Chilas
Trek down to Halale and drive back to Chilas. Overnight stay in hotel at Chilas.
Day 48: Chilas – Islamabad
Early morning drive back to Islamabad. Overnight stay in hotel.
Day 49: Islamabad
Alpine Club will hold a farewell meeting at Alpine Club.
Day 50: Islamabad – Flight Out
End of Nanga Parbat Expedition
Please Note: Skardu/ Gilgit – Islamabad – Skardu/ Gilgit flights are subject to weather and backlog, in case of flight cancellation we will travel by road, and one night of Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.
- Making arrangement of import/ export permit from the ministry of tourism
- Assistance in obtaining climbing permit from the Ministry of Tourism
- Custom clearance of cargo before arrival of the team, and storage facility
- Hotel accommodation as per itinerary
- Briefing/ Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism at Islamabad
- All meals during trek and at B.C as per program
- All road transport and all transfers as mentioned in the program
- Porterage of 75 kg per team member of expedition, equipment and high altitude food to B.C and 50 kg per team member on return from BC
- Camping ground fees, sleeping tents, mattresses, kitchen tent, mess and toilet tent, field stools
- Crockery, cooking pan, cutlery, fuel and other related kitchen equipment
- Daily wages and basic kit of guide, sardar, cook and assistants
- Field staff and low altitude porters insurance
- Porterage at hotels, airports, toll taxes and all other taxes
- Reconfirmation of air tickets, mail handling/ forwarding to BC
- Hiring of high altitude porters, mail runner or any other crew as per requirements (wages and kit to be provided by the team)
- International air tickets, airport taxes, excess baggage charges
- High altitude porters/ any crew above BC
- Sleeping bags, tents, mattresses, high altitude food and oxygen beyond base camp
- Ground evacuations, helicopter rescue charges and medications
- Climbing permit fee or any other fee to be paid to the authorities of Pakistan
- Insurance liability of team members and others under force majeure situations
- Clearing agent charges for the clearance of team equipment, if any