Elevation: 8047 Mt
Mountain Range: Karakoram
First Ascent: 1957 by Hermann Buhl/ Fritz Wintersteller
Duration: 55 Days
Best Time: May – August
Location and name:
Broad Peak, the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,047 meters, is located in the Karakoram Range in Northeastern Pakistan. The mountain is located along the western Baltoro glacier betwe en K2 and Gasherbrum IV. The first westerner who saw the peak was probably Lieutenant T.G. Montgomerie. He was surveying the mountains in the area and in 1856 he spotted some extraordinary peaks, which he gave temporary names. K stands for Karakoram + a number for the peak K1, K2, K3 etc. Montgomerie later found out K1had a local name; Masherbrum. K2 still goes under that name, even if some have proposed to re-name it Chogori, a name used by some local people. K3, the third peak to be measured by Montgomerie didn’t have a local name. The summit ridge of the peak is almost 2 km long and therefore British explorer W.M. Conway thought Broad Peak was a suitable name. Conway noted: “a fine breadth of mountain splendour…a huge Breithorn, as it were, filing the space between K2 and the hidden Gasherbrum.” The name won general acceptance, but some zealots on a mission to get rid of all western names wanted a local name on the peak. They did not find any credible name candidates, so they did what they considered second best: they simply translated Broad Peak into Balti, the local Tibetan dialect. The name – P’alchan Kangri/Ri. It became a bit bastardized over the years and is nowadays spelled and pronounced Falchen Kangri, which is completely off the mark as there are no “f-sounds” in Balti.
55 Days Itinerary:
Day 01: Islamabad
Meet and assist at airport by a local tour manager. Alpine Club of Pakistan will host a welcome reception at Alpine Club. Overnight stay in hotel.
Day 02: Islamabad
We will go to the ministry of tourism where the tourism officials will brief the team. If the time allow we may go for a short city tour of Islamabad. Overnight stay in hotel.
Day 03: Islamabad – Chilas (472 km)
Early morning drive for Chilas. Overnight stay in hotel.
Day 04: Chilas – Skardu (275 km)
After breakfast depart for Skardu. En route you will view Nanga Parbat (8125 m). Overnight stay in hotel.
Day 05: Skardu – Askole (3000 m)
Jeep (4×4) drive to Askole. (Tent)
Day 06 – 12: Trek to Broad Peak Base Camp. (Tent)
Day 13 – 47: We have 66 days for acclimatization and for scaling the summit. (Tent)
Day 48 – 51: Trek down to Hushe via Gondogoro La and then drive back to Skardu. (Tent)
Day 52: Skardu – Islamabad (By Air)
Early morning flight to Islamabad (flights are subject to weather), Up on arrival transfer to hotel in Islamabad/ Rawalpindi and check in. In the afternoon we will go for sightseeing tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad/ Rawalpindi.
*if unable to fly we will depart for Islamabad/ Rawalpindi by road with overnight stay at Chilas.
Day 53: Islamabad
We will take full day excursion to visit Taxila museum and sites, also visit Sikh Gurdwara (Panja Sahib). Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad/ Rawalpindi.
*If we remain unable to fly on day 20 then this day will be used to transfer from Chilas to Islamabad by road which is about 14 hour’s drive.
Day 54: Islamabad – Rawalpindi
We will proceed for de-briefing at Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad. Afternoon city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi.
Day 55: Islamabad – Flight out
Transfer to airport for flight back home. End of services.
Please Note: Skardu/ Gilgit – Islamabad – Skardu/ Gilgit flights are subject to weather and backlog, in case of flight cancellation we will travel by road, and one night of Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.
- Making arrangement of import/ export permit from the ministry of tourism
- Assistance in obtaining climbing permit from the Ministry of Tourism
- Custom clearance of cargo before arrival of the team, and storage facility
- Hotel accommodation as per itinerary
- Briefing/ Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism at Islamabad
- All meals during trek and at B.C as per program
- All road transport and all transfers as mentioned in the program
- Porterage of 75 kg per team member of expedition, equipment and high altitude food to B.C and 50 kg per team member on return from BC
- Camping ground fees, sleeping tents, mattresses, kitchen tent, mess and toilet tent, field stools
- Crockery, cooking pan, cutlery, fuel and other related kitchen equipment
- Daily wages and basic kit of guide, sardar, cook and assistants
- Field staff and low altitude porters insurance
- Porterage at hotels, airports, toll taxes and all other taxes
- Reconfirmation of air tickets, mail handling/ forwarding to BC
- Hiring of high altitude porters, mail runner or any other crew as per requirements (wages and kit to be provided by the team)
- International air tickets, airport taxes, excess baggage charges
- High altitude porters/ any crew above BC
- Sleeping bags, tents, mattresses, high altitude food and oxygen beyond base camp
- Ground evacuations, helicopter rescue charges and medications
- Climbing permit fee or any other fee to be paid to the authorities of Pakistan
- Insurance liability of team members and others under force majeure situations
- Clearing agent charges for the clearance of team equipment, if any